Now For Something Completely Different (Not Monty Python)

And Now for Something Completely Different

Hárslevelű

Robert K. Stephen (CSWRobert K. Stephen Outer Limit Wines

No, I am not referring to a Monty Python film but rather a Carpinus Hárslevelű Dry White from Hungary. It is made from the Hárslevelű grape and is blended often for Hungary’s famous sweet wine Tokaji.

It is going solo here. The wine is a very light gold colour. On the nose loaded with apricot, peach, honey and toffee. On the palate there is the apricot again but some pineapple, apple and a hint of mashed potatoes. A sneaky seam of acidity fails to peek out from behind the curtains, but you know it is present.

It lacks any real defining characteristics on the palate except for being tight fisted and closed. Its nose appeared to lead to some hope we could call this a good wine but it is far from excellent. That is a shame because we get so little Hungarian wine in Ontario one hopes for something better than this average quaffer. I am not writing Hungary off as the LCBO has previously brought in some great Kadarka, Kéfrankos and Feteasca Neagra from Hungary.

Drink now. I will not argue with the LCBO when they state “Sip with barbequed pork. Or mushroom burgers topped with caramelized onions and served with paprika seasoned fries.” I may add eat with a pork schnitzel.

(Carpinus Hárslevelű Dry White 2016, Carpinus Winery Ltd., Bodrogkisfalud, Hungary, $20.95, 11%, 750 mL, LCBO # 545996, Square Media Group Rating 85/100).

I noted in Oz Clarke’s Encyclopedia of Grapes where he says there are few examples have the delicate pollen scent and elderflower fruit which this grape can boast when made as a dry wine.

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About the Author

Robert Stephen (CSW)
Robert K Stephen writes about food and drink, travel, and lifestyle issues. He is one of the few non-national writers to be certified as a wine specialist by the Society of Wine Educators, in Washington, DC. Robert was the first associate member of the Wine Writers’ Circle of Canada. He also holds a Mindfulness Certification from the University of Leiden. Be it Spanish cured meat, dried fruit, BBQ, or recycled bamboo place mats, Robert endeavours to escape the mundane, which is why he loves The Square. His motto is, "Have Story, Will Write." Email Robert Stephen